Cyclamen persicum – Flowering plants

Cyclamen persicum are tuberous, herbaceous, perennials that develop from either straightened, flapjack like or round tubers relying upon the species. The tuber becomes just underneath the dirt surface or, now and again, on top of it. The tubers begin very little yet get more extensive with age, once in a while surpassing 6″ in width and extremely old tubers can achieve the measure of a supper plate. An all around tended cyclamen can satisfy 100 years in a same spot. Cyclamen persicum leaves have a tremendous range of shapes, even within a single species. The leaves may be kidney bean-shaped, heart-shaped, ivy leaf-shaped, or even somewhat triangular. Some are rounded, some are angular, some are short and wide, and others are narrow and elongated. Most species usually have attractive silver variegation patterns on the dark green leaf. The silver variegation appears as blotches, flecks, diamond-shaped patterns, heart-shaped patterns, central “Christmas tree” patterns or “spear head” patterns. In some cases the whole leaf is shaded silver or pewter. On most species, new leaves show up in the fall or winter and rise just 2-4″ over the soil. They last until the accompanying summer and afterward vanish while the tuber goes summer torpid.

Scientific name: Cyclamen persicum

Common name: Cyclamen, Florist Cyclamen

How to grow and maintain Cyclamen:

Sunlight:

When the cyclamen persicum is in flower provide a decent amount of light, without direct sunlight.

Temperature:

Cyclamen persicum is critical with regards to temperature: keep it in the vicinity of 40 and 68 degrees. Its leaves grow in autumn, and the plant grows throughout the winter. It dies in the spring and goes dormant during the summer.

Watering:

Water when the gardening soil feels dry. Try not to permit an excessive amount of water in the cyclamen’s crown range since it might bring about the tuber to decay. Once the blossoms start to blur (implying that the plant will soon go into lethargy), progressively decrease watering so that the cyclamen plant dries out inside a few months. Keep soil dry amid torpidity on the grounds that the tuber will spoil if kept excessively wet as of now.

Fertilizer:

In the event that the Cyclamen persicum plant is given an excessive amount of manure, it won’t bloom and will be more helpless to decays and forms (the event of which can be decreased by great wind stream).

Propagation:

Plant a cyclamen tuber in a plant compartment with the top half over the soil’s surface. Following a little while of good watering, the cyclamen ought to start to develop.

Pests and Diseases:

If your Cyclamen persicum plant starts looking distorted or stop growing where buds and new growth is supposed to grow, you may have Cyclamen persicum mites (which are microscopic arachnids that attack many African violets). These are very difficult to control, and you will most likely need to throw your cyclamen plant away before it spreads to other contai